I went on vacation. That should be obvious from the picture of the 17th-century royal crest I found in the subterranean crypt of an Irish Protestant church. I know it screams "kickin' back."
It had been three years since my last escape from New York, when I went to the North of England and discovered the Withnail house. Those of you who know what I'm talking about, know how huge that was.
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| 2009. In front of the abandoned house used to shoot Crow Crag. |
I ran the gamut of tribulations during my last three years in New York, to a point where I would not feel totally wrong using the word "Dickensian" to describe them. (Prolonged infirmity, dislocation, and creepy houses overrun with vermin make me feel okay about using such a term. Luckily I avoided any workhouses, orphanages or guillotines.) However, one of the high points of this year was my getting to go on as Stanley Stubbers in "One Man, Two Guvnors" on one glorious August afternoon. It pretty much made my life. Observe life-made face:
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| Me in "One Man, Two Guvnors" on Broadway with James Corden |
I had a great time on my most recent trip and cannot feel guilty about it. I'm hoping that's a new me talking. I went to England and Ireland. Yes, I know -- not a very original choice for Eli, but since singlehood still requires me taking vacations on my own, I like to go where my friends are. England has always been that place. And in addition to visiting territories previously unexplored in wet Old Blighty, I also branched out and made my first visit to its even rainier ex-colony to the west: Old McRainy O'Dampenland;
In London, I was able to catch up with lots of great Brits with whom I shared the stage this summer in "One Man, Two Guvnors" on Broadway. I also saw some old friends, and made some new. In Cornwall I got to lounge around in St. Ives, hike over to Land's End, travel down to the Minack Theatre, which is built into the side of a dramatic cliff face in Porthcurno, and I got to have my first "cream tea."
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| A cream tea in a town called St. Just |
A West Country specialty, a cream tea consists of a homemade biscuit, Cornwall clotted cream, strawberry jam, and hot tea. However, we'll have to technically call the one pictured above a "cream hot chocolate" because I have an unfortunate block with tea. I refuse to drink it willingly. It is tragic, really, because it's one of two food-based character flaws that will prevent me from transitioning fully into the "English Man" I still dream of becoming. The others are the fact that I can't stand Marmite, and I like my chips vinegar-free. Guys, I'm working on it.
I also took a day to go to Brighton, where "One Man, Two Guvnors" is
set. Actor Martyn Ellis and I discovered the real pub which
inspired the action of the play, The Cricketers Arms.
In the town of St. Ives, my friend Lucy and I visited the Barbara Hepworth Garden.
It's where sculptor
Dame Barbara Hepworth worked and lived for much of her life. I'd never heard of her before I went to Cornwall, nor did I know much about modern sculpture. - but I enjoyed the exhibit enough to steal one of her sculptures for what I'm dubbing my "artist photo."
I then went to Ireland...
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| Knocknarea, Co Sligo, Ireland |
... where, as you can see, an Ulster Bank cash
machine ate my debit card. I can't give enough thanks to my most generous hostess in Sligo for lending me many Euros to see me through the rest of my stay.
Muireann, I promise I will get your money back to you, even though it looks like I've
scarpered and have the perfect excuse for being a deadbeat about it!
And oh yes, I saw some things in Sligo besides a belligerent bank machine eating my life. Here are a couple of them:
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| A large neolithic tomb at Carrowmore. Approx 6,000 years old! |
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| The view of the seaside at beautiful windswept Strandhill, facing the Atlantic Ocean. |
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| A typical street in the city of Sligo. |
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| Sligo, in a rare moment of sunshine. |
I also went to Dublin, on the other side of the country...
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| Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin |
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| St. Stephen's Green, Dublin |
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...where I did all the banal tourist stuff and loved it. Trinity College,
The Book of Kells, the Long Room Library (possibly my favorite part),
Christchurch Cathedral, the Brazen Head pub (Ireland's oldest) and at
the end of my first night went to the Gaiety Theatre, where I saw an
excellent stage adaptation of James Joyce's
Dubliners, performed by the
Corn Exchange theater company.
If you have a chance to see this production, please do. I am jaded
about most plays, especially adaptations of things. This was absolutely
out of sight. I was on the edge of my seat the entire time, and not just
because I was seated way over on the side and had to keep leaning in in
order to see. This was an immense piece of drama, and the experience of
seeing this story of the people of Dublin, staged and set in a town I'd
just spent all day exploring - well, it renewed my faith in the power
of theater. I hadn't read
Dubliners in almost 15 years, but the stories came flooding back into my memory one by one.
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| Christchurch Cathedral, exterior and interior. |
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I did a tour on my second day in Dublin called
The 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour. I highly recommend this tour to anyone visiting the city. Guide Lorcan Collins takes you to all of the places relevant to the historic armed uprising carried out in 1916 in Dublin. Bullet holes in the sides of Georgian columns tell a chilling tale of what went down that Easter Week, in a city that was once a stronghold of English power. The Irish Republican Brotherhood lit the match on a powder keg that Easter Monday, when they took over the General Post Office as their battle-station. The insurrection was quickly put down, and its leaders all executed, but the event would lead to the larger, more successful rebellion that would separate most of Ireland from England in 1922. (Obviously, this did not represent the end of violent turmoil between the two countries ... but it was a start.) I knew very little about the 1916 Rebellion going in, and Lorcan spoke with such authority on the topic that I feel confident believing every word he said - to the point of wanting to read a book on the event to make sure. Lorcan was funny, passionate, and extremely literate on all facets of Irish history.
Here are some meaningless snaps from the tour:
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| Short on aesthetics, but long on significance, the Liberty Hall stands at 16 stories, commemorating the 1916 Easter Rising. It houses the Services, Industrial, Professional, and Technical Union. |
Just outside the General Post Office (one of the sites taken siege by the armed rebels in 1916) stands a statue of Jim Larkin, labor organizer and co-founder of the Irish Citizen Army, formed in response to violent strike-breaking during a labor lockout in 1913.
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| Plaque referring to the violence perpetrated during the Dublin Lock-Out of 1913. |
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| City Hall - another battle site of the 1916 Rebellion. |
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| A plaque commemorating members of the Irish Citizens Army who died at City Hall. |
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| And perhaps the most incredible part of all: THEY STILL HAVE TOWER RECORDS IN DUBLIN! |
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| The Oldest Pub in Ireland. I went in here for lunch, and all I heard were American accents all around me. Bloody typical! |
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Statue of Charles II of England, with his nose mysteriously lopped off.
Still - it's a better fate than befell his dad. |
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| The interior of the lovely Trocadero restaurant in Dublin. Popular with theater types, it's essentially the Sardi's of Dulin. Faces line the walls, and I swear I heard one or two "deals" go down. |